Phil
In memoriam
RIP 23-Oct-2018
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Post by Phil on Mar 21, 2011 12:47:25 GMT
Just a quick post to say that the new edition of Model Rail, no 155, April 2011, has a 3 page spread on fitting lights to the EFE 62ts.
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metman
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5056 05/12/1961-23/04/2012 RIP
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Post by metman on Mar 21, 2011 13:09:58 GMT
Oooo! Might have to get that one. Cheers Phil.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2011 19:47:23 GMT
That's annoying since I was just over there...Will try and find it here.
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Post by phillw48 on Mar 21, 2011 20:30:01 GMT
The publication date is this Thursday coming, subscribers already have their copies.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2011 23:05:34 GMT
Fitting lights is realativly easy; it's fitting the motor bogies and DCC chips thats the fun!
Xerces Fobe
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 3:24:40 GMT
Why do you think I'm sticking with anologue..... ;D
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 6:57:56 GMT
After reading a guide somewhere on the web DCC looks relatively easy to fit to the Tenshodo motor bogies. Don't know about actually installing motor bogies though..
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Post by metroland on Mar 22, 2011 8:52:11 GMT
Why do you think I'm sticking with anologue..... ;D +1
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 12:46:51 GMT
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 13:12:34 GMT
Don't use Tenshodos and DCC as you will need to have 2 motor bogies in a 4-car unit and they just don't work together well. This issue has not only been experienced by me; there is a thread RMweb about it.
I suggest you use John Polley's Endo Motor bogies or Black Beetles instead.
Xerces Fobe
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 13:30:10 GMT
You could just have two decoders in the car. Not a problem then.
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metman
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Post by metman on Mar 22, 2011 14:28:37 GMT
If you wire the motors together is this still a problem? I of course don't use DCC, I've got enough to worry about with working signals, shunt signals, platform boards.....
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metman
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Post by metman on Mar 22, 2011 14:29:32 GMT
Talking of detailing EFE cars, has anyone had any joy with paint stripping or painting over the tube stock. Was talking with Glyn about it at Acton and he's had no joy.
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Post by phillw48 on Mar 22, 2011 14:57:38 GMT
Talking of detailing EFE cars, has anyone had any joy with paint stripping or painting over the tube stock. Was talking with Glyn about it at Acton and he's had no joy. If you just want to remove just the lettering use nail varnish remover on the end of a cotton bud, but don't rub to hard or you will remove the underlying paint as well.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 15:03:29 GMT
Driving Tenshodo bogies from DCC seems to work well. In the metromodels 1992 stock, one Lenz decoder drives two Tenshodos at each DM. I have started to use John Polley's Endo motor bogies which are harder to convert for DCC operation than the Tenshodos, where only a metal conductor strip needs to be broken on each side and wires soldered to them for pick-up current. The Endos have split metal bodies and the current is transmitted from the wheels to the motor through each side of the body. This makes isolating the motor from the pickups more difficult.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 19:38:52 GMT
Talking of detailing EFE cars, has anyone had any joy with paint stripping or painting over the tube stock. Was talking with Glyn about it at Acton and he's had no joy. If you just want to remove just the lettering use nail varnish remover on the end of a cotton bud, but don't rub to hard or you will remove the underlying paint as well. Very risky nail varnish remover could melt the body - same method with cotton bud and white spirit small amount and light pressure - just take it slowly and keep checking progress Xerces Fobe
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 19:42:16 GMT
Driving Tenshodo bogies from DCC seems to work well. In the metromodels 1992 stock, one Lenz decoder drives two Tenshodos at each DM. I have started to use John Polley's Endo motor bogies which are harder to convert for DCC operation than the Tenshodos, where only a metal conductor strip needs to be broken on each side and wires soldered to them for pick-up current. The Endos have split metal bodies and the current is transmitted from the wheels to the motor through each side of the body. This makes isolating the motor from the pickups more difficult. I found out how to DCC an Endo at Acton from one of John's colleagues - Black Beetles are another option. Xerces Fobe
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 19:44:40 GMT
Very risky nail varnish remover could melt the body - same method with cotton bud and white spirit small amount and light pressure - just take it slowly and keep checking progress Xerces Fobe I thought EFE stock was diecast...
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 19:47:26 GMT
You could just have two decoders in the car. Not a problem then. This does not work you can end up in the worst case with the motor bogies going in different directions . Tenshodos together in any combination appear to spell trouble even if you consist them they are just as bad! Xerces Fobe
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 19:49:56 GMT
Nigel (Xercesfobe), I would be interested to know the method used to DCC an Endo. My method works but is, shall we say, evolving. BTW: I might have been standing next to you while John was doing the EFE wheel bogie conversion at Acton?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 19:53:32 GMT
You could just have two decoders in the car. Not a problem then. This does not work you can end up in the worst case with the motor bogies going in different directions . Tenshodos together in any combination appear to spell trouble even if you consist them they are just as bad! Xerces Fobe If the motor bogies are going in differing directions, yer programming is duff or you've connected the motor wires the wrong way. Does nay mean trouble!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 20:23:32 GMT
This does not work you can end up in the worst case with the motor bogies going in different directions . Tenshodos together in any combination appear to spell trouble even if you consist them they are just as bad! Xerces Fobe If the motor bogies are going in differing directions, yer programming is duff or you've connected the motor wires the wrong way. Does nay mean trouble! No not the case the train is traveling in one direction. The train stops and start it it again in the opposite direction and one motor bogie either is slow to start or fails to change direction. Since I dumped the Tenshodos this has not occurred. Xerces Fobe
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 20:30:36 GMT
Very risky nail varnish remover could melt the body - same method with cotton bud and white spirit small amount and light pressure - just take it slowly and keep checking progress Xerces Fobe I thought EFE stock was diecast... Chassis is but not the body. Xerces Fobe
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 20:43:47 GMT
I thought EFE stock was diecast... Chassis is but not the body. Xerces Fobe I see. What decoders were you running when you had said problem? The Hornby R8249 decoders have a tendency to kick backwards when they drop power for a sec, but not all the time. Then again I'd expect with the quality of your layout you'll be using Lenz or summat.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 20:58:23 GMT
Chassis is but not the body. Xerces Fobe I see. What decoders were you running when you had said problem? The Hornby R8249 decoders have a tendency to kick backwards when they drop power for a sec, but not all the time. Then again I'd expect with the quality of your layout you'll be using Lenz or summat. Thanks for the compliment about the layout - Lenz Mini Silvers still have a pair in one 1938 with Black Beetles without any of these problems. The other pair I swapped for Bachmann chips physically bigger but work OK. The problem you describe is spot on as I the stock has 5 points in a row to cross to enter the headshunt to the depot and that is where the problem is most evident I think I sometimes get a short for a very short period and that causes the issue. However I have been able recreate the problem on a test track sometimes. I spent hours on this issue and it far worse with a Prodigy, NCE Powercabs are a lot more forgiving. Xerces Fobe
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 21:52:00 GMT
Are you using electrofrog or insulfrog points?
I assume you have all 8 wheels as pickup. With that I don't see what the issue would be, despite the large number of points, as you're not going to have 4 axles off juice at once!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 21:59:31 GMT
Are you using electrofrog or insulfrog points? I assume you have all 8 wheels as pickup. With that I don't see what the issue would be, despite the large number of points, as you're not going to have 4 axles off juice at once! 8 wheel pick up on both power cars I have all live frogs except on the double slips. The big issue is that the track tarnishes badly in the colder weather causing a lot of running issues for a lot of stock Will be giving the track another good clean prior to the Amersham Show in April.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2011 22:02:18 GMT
Try running a Dapol track cleaner, not sure how that fares for tarnishing, but it scrubs!. The newest Hornby track doesn't seem to have an issue with tarnishing the surface much, I take you use Peco?
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neilw
now that's what I call a garden railway
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Post by neilw on Mar 23, 2011 10:33:40 GMT
returning to the thread, I'm not sure about the article-the tail lights seem oversize, and the front marker lights oversize and too bright for what would then be just filament lamps. Has anyone done better?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2011 13:35:32 GMT
returning to the thread, I'm not sure about the article-the tail lights seem oversize, and the front marker lights oversize and too bright for what would then be just filament lamps. Has anyone done better? Smaller LED.s and higher value resistor should sort the problem. Xerces Fobe
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