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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 18:55:31 GMT
I've had my first ever go at repairing a puncture. I bought myself a repair kit at Halfords, cleaned and sanded the puncture area before applying the rubber adhesive and the patch. I then left it alone for half an hour. I saw that the patch had fallen off  from the inner tube but the puncture seems to be repaired. Is this supposed to happen? |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 18:57:38 GMT
Apply the glue when the tyre is flat. Let the gunge get nearly dry, press the patch firmly on the gunge, and hold for a few minutes. When it is stuck, partially inflate the tyre... The patch should stay on...
I find it much easier to just replace the inner tube, having carefully checked the outer tyre first!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:30:59 GMT
Thanks for the quick reply. I tried playing around a bit and found the patch had a black, rubbery side and a white side with a plasticky coating. I flipped it so the rubbery side faced the inner tube (bit funny colour choices...) so the white stood out like a thumb on the inner tube!
The black side was a little more eager to stick but it still felt all-too-eager to come off. Nonetheless, I've managed to let it stay and hope I can resume my 5-mile commute tomorrow!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:32:53 GMT
I think yuo are meant to remove the white plastic!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:36:16 GMT
Oh c*ck...
It felt rather reluctant to separate when I tried flicking it around with my fingernails...
*goes off to deflate tyre*
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:37:24 GMT
inner tubes are the answer in conjunction with a puncture repair kit.
You take 2 inner tubes with you the whole time, because it is very likely you will mess up changing it, and then leave the puncture repair at home for the inner tubes that are bust.
you may also save yourself money by getting kevlar or armoured tires, they are pretty good.
my dad, who does a 15 mile round commute a day does this, and it is a pretty good system.
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Phil
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RIP 23-Oct-2018
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Post by Phil on Mar 8, 2007 19:38:22 GMT
Artery has it: the white bit is a handling cover to be removed.
The other thing is to follow the instructions coz there's two types of glue. With one type you apply adhesive and stick patch on then let it dry. With the other you apply adhesive to tube and LET IT DRY, then stick on patch. It holds immediately (on contact) and cannot be moved, hence the paper cover so you can position it better.
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Post by suncloud on Mar 8, 2007 19:45:59 GMT
I've used the Halford's kit and it's worked fairly well... not that i'm using my bike much these days though...
And all the advice above sounds right. I gather that best practice is to repair your first puncture, and when you get a second it's time for a new inner tube.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:49:40 GMT
You can also get these 'tuffstrips' which is a ring of 3mm thick plastic strip, about 2 inches wide, which you fit inside the tyre between this and the inner tube, they are supposed to stop you getting punctures. so far, I've not got one, despite testing it by riding, deliberately, through a bramble infested bridlepath...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:53:30 GMT
do they reduce ride quality though?
(not that I get very good quality riding a racing bike!)
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:55:31 GMT
not that I've noticed... the other option, and cheaper, it to cut an old inner tube length ways and snip out the valve... roll this around the newer inner tube and simply fit inside the tyre...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:57:53 GMT
I'm not sure it would fit into my narrow tires, but a good idea anyway! I have ridden since August on the same tyres and have done 1000+ miles without a puncture AND in London! AND I don't have the kevlar tyres, it must be a miracle! |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 19:57:57 GMT
Many thanks for the tip and advice. They have been invaluable. This has been more trouble than I've asked - all for saving £9!
I'm finally done with it (I think) and I'll stick the wheel back onto my bike in a couple of hours - fingers crossed!
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Post by suncloud on Mar 8, 2007 19:59:14 GMT
Or put some 'slime' in your inner tube...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 20:05:29 GMT
That green gunk!!! Wonderstuff!
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Post by donnytom on Mar 8, 2007 22:32:49 GMT
Yup, available either as a can to squirt into existing tyres, but is probably easiest when already in the tube from new. From my own experience, I found that around three patches were needed to block the leak completely, with would inevitably be next to the join in the rubber!
The gunk is also available for car tyres, but it makes a mess of something doesn't it?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2007 22:41:20 GMT
I found a company that did solid rubber tyres for bikes, so you dinnae need an inner tube... wish I remembered whom it was... Pair cost about £70.
The amount of tyre levers I snapped getting the damn things on... Tsk!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2007 16:57:11 GMT
get some proper metal tyre levers ATO!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2007 18:36:05 GMT
*advice taken*
Just hope I don't get a buckled wheel... because I'll leave the bike shop to sort out the problem of removing the tyre and replacing them onto a new wheel!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2007 3:27:45 GMT
Tyre levers? I tried a spoon and a screwdriver before finding a way to get the tyre off and back on again without using anything! ;D
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2007 16:45:35 GMT
I can do it without a tyre lever now too!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2007 17:37:07 GMT
Haha!
Another question irrelevant to punctures but with bikes. I just helped a friend assembling a bike. The frame under the saddle has two nuts which go into each other to secure the saddle itself. Are those two nuts supposed to go into each other completely? The ones which came in the box get jammed halfway meaning the saddle cannot be secured! (I use a bolt and nut for my saddle thus my lack of knowledge! ;D)
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2007 17:44:32 GMT
I guess they are... The saddle I have on mine only has an allen key bolt type thing to secure it...
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2007 1:16:47 GMT
Michelin makes something called the Bib Mousse for dirt bikes and possibly mountain bikes that's effectively an inner tube made of closed cell foam, can't go flat but it's a bit heavy and hard riding. For bike tubes I use glueless patches (just peel and stick) for quickie repairs and a Rema patch kit (the kind where the patch has an orange edge) for permanent jobs.
Regarding the saddle, I think the seat binder should be a bolt and a sleeve nut and the seat tub should pinch the seatpost while there are still a few threads to go. The design varies a lot depending on whether there is a separate colllar, brazed on tabs, or an integrated setup.
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from the inner tube but the puncture seems to be repaired. Is this supposed to happen?
