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Post by Deleted on Feb 13, 2014 19:26:27 GMT
How do you guys get decent photographs in the tunnels, I know camera technology has come on leaps and bounds in the last decade, just interested in what methods you guys are using, how are you freezing moving trains in the tunnels?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2014 13:05:16 GMT
A few pointers as to how I do it:
I use a DSLR and set the ISO setting quite high (depending on amount of light available, I use anything between 2000 ISO and 6400 ISO)
A prime lens is a good idea, as these open up more than zoom lenses, and as there is less glass, they let more light through.
Using a high ISO setting can put digital noise (random coloured pixels that make the image a bit fuzzy - sort of like the grain in high speed camera film) into the picture. Some of this can be reduced or removed using noise removal software. A good one to try is Neat Image which can be downloaded as a free trial.
Remember that some cameras will perform better than others with regards to digital noise.
Taking platforms 5 and 6 at Baker Street as an example, a setting under there of 5000 ISO with an aperture of f2.5 should give you a shutter speed of about 1/320th of a sec, which is enough to freeze a train.
Whatever you do, don't use a flash, and if your camera has a focus assist light, make sure that is switched off too.
I hope the above helps.
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Post by compsci on Feb 14, 2014 16:19:33 GMT
Beyond that I often find that auto exposure overestimates the exposure required in tunnels. This results in both an image that is too bright and also use of longer shutter speeds and hence more opportunity for blurring. I normally use exposure compensation of at least -1, often -2. While it's not ideal you can always digitally increase the exposure later (though you will lose some detail). This is still better than having a blurry picture, which is almost impossible to fix. Also consider using continuous shooting mode and take several shots in a row - which is something you would most likely do anyway with a moving train. You are likely to end up with some of the resulting photos being sharper than others. Finally hold your breath before and while pressing the shutter button - you won't shake as much and so the camera won't shake as much either. A good example is www.flickr.com/photos/24906819@N00/2770952274/ This was taken with my old Canon EOS 350D and the 18-55mm kit lens at ISO 800 and exposure compensation -1. This is the highest usable ISO setting on a 350D and you can see quite a bit of noise at full size, though it's not too noticeable otherwise. I now have a Canon 6D, which is massively more capable in low light (but also more expensive). Don't have any tunnel photos from it yet though. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2014 21:12:53 GMT
A few pointers as to how I do it: I use a DSLR and set the ISO setting quite high (depending on amount of light available, I use anything between 2000 ISO and 6400 ISO) A prime lens is a good idea, as these open up more than zoom lenses, and as there is less glass, they let more light through. Using a high ISO setting can put digital noise (random coloured pixels that make the image a bit fuzzy - sort of like the grain in high speed camera film) into the picture. Some of this can be reduced or removed using noise removal software. A good one to try is Neat Image which can be downloaded as a free trial. Remember that some cameras will perform better than others with regards to digital noise. Taking platforms 5 and 6 at Baker Street as an example, a setting under there of 5000 ISO with an aperture of f2.5 should give you a shutter speed of about 1/320th of a sec, which is enough to freeze a train. Whatever you do, don't use a flash, and if your camera has a focus assist light, make sure that is switched off too. I hope the above helps. Yes it does, thanks very much, I`m just between decent cameras actually, been using a Nikon D300 since day one, but recently changed over to a D3200, its alright for a cheap camera with 24 mps and will ride up to 6400, but really I need to upgrade to a D800 for better quality |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2014 21:20:56 GMT
Beyond that I often find that auto exposure overestimates the exposure required in tunnels. This results in both an image that is too bright and also use of longer shutter speeds and hence more opportunity for blurring. I normally use exposure compensation of at least -1, often -2. While it's not ideal you can always digitally increase the exposure later (though you will lose some detail). This is still better than having a blurry picture, which is almost impossible to fix. Also consider using continuous shooting mode and take several shots in a row - which is something you would most likely do anyway with a moving train. You are likely to end up with some of the resulting photos being sharper than others. Finally hold your breath before and while pressing the shutter button - you won't shake as much and so the camera won't shake as much either. A good example is www.flickr.com/photos/24906819@N00/2770952274/ This was taken with my old Canon EOS 350D and the 18-55mm kit lens at ISO 800 and exposure compensation -1. This is the highest usable ISO setting on a 350D and you can see quite a bit of noise at full size, though it's not too noticeable otherwise. I now have a Canon 6D, which is massively more capable in low light (but also more expensive). Don't have any tunnel photos from it yet though. Thanks yes, I have had some success in tunnels on MerseyRail, using compensation as you suggest, I try to lean against a post while shooting and do use a walking stick/come monopod. I suppose in a few years shooting in the dark with the way technology is going, will be more the norn than something specialist |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2014 22:29:35 GMT
Yes it does, thanks very much, I`m just between decent cameras actually, been using a Nikon D300 since day one, but recently changed over to a D3200, its alright for a cheap camera with 24 mps and will ride up to 6400, but really I need to upgrade to a D800 for better quality I used to use a D300 and got some pretty good results with it. I now use a D600, which is a vast improvement. The D800 is well known for it's low light capabilities. I really do recommend using a good prime though too. Zoom lenses are OK in good light, but a prime is so much sharper and not so light hungry. I recently bought the Nikon 50mm f1.4, which although not brilliant wide open at f1.4, at f1.8 and upwards, it's really sharp. An example of a photo taken with it can be found here www.15c.co.uk/LU_Engineering/0027.htm (there are others taken with the D600 elsewhere on my site). |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2014 7:29:42 GMT
Yes indeed I have a Nikkor prime DX 1:1.8G, I tend to use for night shooting, I have had some excellent results with this, thanks, I did look at the D600 at one point as Jessops were selling them off at less that 1K body only?, an excellent camera to be sure.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2014 9:18:45 GMT
Yes indeed I have a Nikkor prime DX 1:1.8G, I tend to use for night shooting, I have had some excellent results with this, thanks, I did look at the D600 at one point as Jessops were selling them off at less that 1K body only?, an excellent camera to be sure. A DX lens will not work properly with a D600 or a D800, as they are designed for use only with cameras with a crop sensor, and can only take reduced sized pictures if used with a full frame camera. So if you go down the route of buying a D800, you will need to also but a new prime. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2014 18:05:16 GMT
Ah thanks for that mate, I didnt realise, I expect I`ll need a few new lenses for it then, my main lens is a Nikkor DX 18-200, I`d need to replace that too then I guess, plus I also use a 600mm APO, I dred to think how much it will cost me to replace that one :-(
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Post by Hassaan on Feb 15, 2014 22:22:59 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2014 23:09:27 GMT
Thats an excellent shot, I`m using the D3200, a brilliant camera for the price |
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