Radley Models Resin Kits

Yes, although I make kits for Radley Models, so I may be biased! ;D

Generally, the bodies are resin and the chasis is white metal. The Acton Shuttle is all resin. There will be certain areas to clean off the flash or mold lines. A shape knife is great for this. The thing to watch out for is bent or warped areas. If there is any areas that don't look right you can bend them back into shape by putting them in a sink of warm/hot water and putting a weight on them!

You may find this with the chasis. I think you'll be fine, especially if you have previous experience. If you run into troubles send me a PM. I think Glyn has built the Acton Shuttle Kit, so he may also have something to add here.

The most important thing is...you must share all the pictures of the layout with us!

Good luck.

The Acton Shuttle was the first resin kit that I built from the excellent Radley models range. I went for something a little different however and built it as a Q23 DM! As supplied it has the correct early arrangement of lights/shutters for the G class and the marker lights on the 'rear' end. The air pipes (sorry again Tubeprune, hoses ) are on the inboard position on both ends whereas they should be outboard on one end depending on which of the two Shuttle cars you are building. I did not motorise mine as I decided that, as part of a six-car set of Q stock, I would put the motor bogies in the Harrow Models whitemetal Q38 trailer(!).

The kit itself was easy! As supplied it comes with two sets of motor bogie frames whereas the prototype had a K2 trailing bogie one end. This is also available from Phil Radley thanks to the efforts of Metman! Some cleaning up of the resin body was required but not much. There was no problem with warping on either the body or chassis on the kit I built. I used Hornby spoked metal wagon wheels for my car as they are the correct eight-spoke 12mm ones for most LT vehicles. The air connections are moulded and I decided to remove these and replace them with seperate fittings. After making the necessary modifications to enable it to be a Q23 I had a friend paint it and it really looks the part. I have yet to add passengers and a driver along with a couple of posters on the bulkheads but it can be made into a nice model if you put some effort into it. Thankfully, there are plenty of quality pictures available for referance.

If I wasn't currently resorting to using the computer in the local library as the home one is knackered I would send you a picture or two.... If you need any more info please do not hesitate to PM me. Good luck. By the way, don't apologise for putting a 'Terrier' on a model. They are superb little engines!

I know the problem. I wish to run District, Metropolitan and Piccadilly stock but with the odd Central tube train thrown in and SR third rail EMUs. A name is also a problem. The moment I can get the home 'pooter sorted I'll send a couple of pics.

Nice work - Like the T Stock especially

Xerces Fobe

I intend to make a model of ESL118A/B using Radley Models parts as I already have the bodies and will scratch build the cabs. Lots of other units in "The Works" ahead of this project though!

Xerces Fobe

As an addition to Metman's note, I was at the Aylesbury model railway show last weekend, and I saw there that Bill Bedford is about to produce kits for the Dreadnoughts. These have very fine resin bodies, the rest being etched.

I also understand he is looking at Met Milk vans as well.

Having built his kits before these should be very good - and they will be suitable for OO/EM and P4.

White metal bogies are are bit of a nightmare as you need to ensure the sides are parallel.

My suggestion would be to cut the sideframes off, find a Bachmann bogie with the same wheel centres, file the sideframe detail off and glue the whitemetal sideframes on.

You then get the best of both worlds, the correct sideframes with a bogie that runs well.

Xerces Fobe

Totally agree with Metman, however if you lack the patience to do it that way my method is a quick and effective alternative however maybe a slight compromise in accuracy

Good luck with whichever method you choose.

Xerces Fobe

Apologies for going quiet for some time but I have had other commitments notably work to concentrate on recently.

I've cleaned up the flash off of the model, not much mostly a thin film over the toplights on the sides and the cab windows. I'm currently on the hunt for some matt black paint for the underframe and bogies. I need a rolling chassis in order to finalise the plan for the layout you see, and the chassis needs to be painted prior to assembly.

Just a question however is this the correct way to assemble the white metal bogie - obviously with the wheels for the final run through? ;D



Cheers,
~ Green Ranger

No quite, I was asked to design them with drop in wheels!

That's the last kit I'm doing with drop in wheels - promise guys!

The two Acton Shuttles were different. I believe from reading the excellent works of Messrs Hardy and Connor that the two cars (4167 and 4176) were chosen because of the similarity of thier numbers. 4167 was originally an east facing car while 4176 was west facing. Externally, the difference was the position of the external air pipes. District line Q stock cars were 'handed' as with most other stocks. 4167 was a 'D' end car originally and they were have been positioned outboard (nearest to the side of the car) on the end with the original cab and inboard on the other end. On 4176 (an 'A' end car) they were been inboard just outside the centre door on the end with the original cab and outboard the other end. It is a foolproof way of identifying which car is in a photo! On the model the pipes are in the inboard position on both ends so one end will have to be altered anyway. I removed the moulded pipes on my one (now a Q23 DM) and replaced them with seperate ones made from wire. I did the same with the handrails. The cars also retained the brackets under the centre window on the original cab ned for the duty number. 4167 carried '99' while 4176 carried '00'. The 'new' cab did not have this feature or the buffing pads on the front end.

Is the model going to be powered? It may be easier to fit the resin bits of the K2 to a motor bogie. I also echo the comments by Metman re. superglue. Use the liquid as the gel is horrible stuff. Strangely, it makes good filler though! Try and avoid superglue altogether when fitting the glazing as it can 'frost' the windows. I know this from bitter experience!

I also have to add that, apart from the 'drop-in wheels' method of construction (which was not his choice), Metman did a superb job on the K2s and the ones that I have built really look the part under my Q stock and the one 'Dreadnought' I have. If I had them on a photo site I'd put a link up.....

Looking again at the picture of your metal bogie I see you have the rectangular end bolsters positioned with the long side horizontal. It may be better if you place them vertically to give a bit more clearance for the wheels. Just a thought. Good luck and keep us informed.