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Post by northfields on Dec 5, 2009 17:22:31 GMT
A while ago I purchased from ebay a metromodels 2 car 1992 stock set fitted with directional lighting (both cars were motorised). The item was described as not working and I was very pleased when I put them on my track and to my supprise they ran. The problem I have with them is that though they run they only run very slowly and the strange thing is that when I run each car seperately they run a great deal faster.I did notice that on the underside of the model the arrow on the motors both face different way on each car. Could their lack of speed when coupled together be due to the power required to run both of them? And are there any ways of making them run better?
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metman
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Post by metman on Dec 5, 2009 18:50:56 GMT
Interesting situation. Are the motors wired together on each coach? What power supply are you using?
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mrfs42
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Post by mrfs42 on Dec 5, 2009 22:05:57 GMT
Sounds like a case of reverse connections somewhere - I guess that one set of connections would need to be matched to the other; but your bet bet is to carefully draw/tap out a circuit diagram *before* you change anything, especially as you've got the directional lighting.
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Post by northfields on Dec 5, 2009 22:21:46 GMT
There is one teshendo motor per car which has the lights connected to it and I am using a gaugemaster analog controller.
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metman
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Post by metman on Dec 5, 2009 23:05:41 GMT
If there is one spud per car this is were the problem could be. I used to have that problem with my A stock. I tried to keep it acturate by have a motor in each DM. The problem was that motors were not linked. Therefore I placed both of the motor bogies in one car and joined them together. They run smoothly now but juddered a lot before. This may be the answer for you. Also agree with what mrfs has said.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 6, 2009 0:57:21 GMT
I echo the above from mrfs42 and Metman. Putting both 'Spuds' in one car and wiring them together also improves performance over pointwork as all wheels are picking up current. I have done this with my EFE sets. This saves having to fit the trailing bogies with pick-ups, a job for the seriously myopic (like me). If the vehicle is only collecting current from a single motor bogie then there is a tendancy for it to stall on pointwork and on any track that is less than perfect.
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Post by northfields on Dec 7, 2009 21:18:33 GMT
Regretably I am unable to put both motors in one car as they have holes cut for the motors and i am not skilled enought to cut another hole in the floor. Another problem is that what would I wire the lights on the unpowered motor to? Any sugestions?
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metman
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Post by metman on Dec 7, 2009 22:21:04 GMT
I would suggest a trailing bogie pick-up. I don't use them, but I suggest you ask Glyn, as he seems to be good at making them ;D
You basically need to join the motors together. You could try using a busline.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2009 11:58:29 GMT
Just because I've fitted them to a Radley Standard stock DM or two doesn't mean I'm any good at it. I refer you to remarks elsewhere refering to the 'Heath-Robinson' approach!
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metman
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Post by metman on Dec 10, 2009 16:31:37 GMT
Ha ha ha!! Yeah, but you seem to have pulled it off well! ;D
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Post by northfields on Dec 13, 2009 17:34:57 GMT
Thanks for the advice guys I managed to get the train working much better by turning one of the motors arround because the arrows on the motors were facing oposite ways. I tried to wire the motors together but decided against it because I didnt want to make a mistake on a £300 train. But it runs a lot better now.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2009 20:47:32 GMT
Good call on the wiring. discretion is always the better part of valour!
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