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Post by on Apr 2, 2007 8:27:42 GMT
I took about 100 photos a few weeks ago on the Central Line: Used my 35mm and digital as a back up. The digital camera was hit and miss - the shots underground were terrible with streaks of light and reflections spoiling the photo. Only a few turned out ok but the photos from my 35mm were better with just a few that came out bad. I didn't use flash (no need to) Would like to buy a better digital camera but would the results still be the same?
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Oracle (RIP)
chatter
Writing is such sweet sorrow: like heck it is!
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Post by Oracle (RIP) on Apr 2, 2007 9:01:41 GMT
I used to use my 35 mm camera for colour slides. Of course today slides can be scanned, turned into positives, etc. I thought that film had died but I was looking around the local College with my son who was interested in doing Photography GCSE. They have a lovely darkroom, and teach students developing and printing. The tutor said that they do now do digital photography but there was a need to use film especially for artisitic and freestyle use.
That said some of the new digitals that I have been looking at are incredible. I have to take shots for my magazine and they have to be hi-res...going straight to disc. On talking to the sales people it seems that in the end it's down to the lens quality as regards quality.
Would be interested to hear what others think.
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CSLR
chatter
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Post by CSLR on Apr 2, 2007 9:05:57 GMT
The digital camera was hit and miss - the shots underground were terrible with streaks of light and reflections spoiling the photo...Would like to buy a better digital camera but would the results still be the same? There are differences in the lenses which may have caused the reflection problems. Also, you may have suffered from noise on the digital pictures if you used anything more than a very short exposure. If you could post all or part of a picture that has some of these problems, we might be able to work out what the problem is and give some idea on how to overcome it. |
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Post by compsci on Apr 2, 2007 13:54:51 GMT
What types are the cameras? Compacts, SLRs or something in between? Certainly in terms of reflections and other issues not directly related to overall image quality a 35mm and digital SLR with comparable lenses should produce comparable results.
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CSLR
chatter
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Post by CSLR on Apr 2, 2007 16:17:18 GMT
There will always be slight differences between lenses and you will also note small differences in focal length when using the same lens on a digital or an SLR camera. Overall though, I agree with compsci that these differences are minimal.
The odd problem that you occasionally come across with underground photography - and the one to which I was referring - is internal reflection within the lens. Even this is relatively rare and is seen less in cheaper cameras where a 'lens' contains fewer optical elements.
Rob66 mentioned that he was considering buying 'a better digital camera', which suggests that he might be using a compact at the moment. Like compsci, I would like to know what camera was used and at least see an example of an affected image so that we can try to work out what has happened.
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Post by tubeprune on Apr 2, 2007 17:30:33 GMT
I am about to buy a new camera. I'm only an amateur but I want something compact, good lens, optical zoom, high ASA capability for poor light conditions. Somthing I can carry around in my pocket unobtrusively so I don't get mugged for it. Money not particularly a problem - within limits. Current camera Canon S60 but recently broken by teenage relative not taking care of it. It was OK but a bit heavy and older technology. Any members suggestions welcomed.
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Oracle (RIP)
chatter
Writing is such sweet sorrow: like heck it is!
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Post by Oracle (RIP) on Apr 2, 2007 17:56:35 GMT
I swear by my Olympus compact which I have had for nearly two years now. I upgraded it with a 500 MB card then a 1 GB card. I only now bother with the highest-resolution shots and with the large card (same as a Fuji it seems) I can take a huge number. A photo of mine of an ice cream van is going in VINTAGE ROADSCENE issue 95 out shortly. A shot of mine of Marchwood Level Crossing appeared in RAIL a few issues back.
Of course about two minutes after I paid somethng like £260 for my Olympus they brought out a new model that was cheaper and with even more megapixels! That said my camera has withstood attempts by young relatives to drop it, prise open the shutter door, leave it in their coat pocket and generally blow it up.
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beat53
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Post by beat53 on Jul 18, 2008 22:12:00 GMT
 Here's a shot I took before the ELL closed (taken from the station platform with no flash I might add). Just thought it was an example of digital photography in low light, hand held. |
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Chris W
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Choose Love: Remembering Jo Cox and those affected in recent Manchester & London events #TheLastLeg
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Post by Chris W on Jul 19, 2008 9:05:32 GMT
I've been testing a Nikon D60 for work. Its become apparent that the Nikon range of DSLR's are NOT suitable for LU photography.
The camera emits a bright light when focusing, from a lamp adjacent to the lens. IMO even though the flash is switched off (doesn't pop up when the photograph is taken) this focusing light would constitute flash photography, which genuine enthusiasts will know, isn't permitted on LU.
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Post by pakenhamtrain on Jul 19, 2008 9:14:51 GMT
Chris have you tried to use manual focous? Looking at the D60 there is a switch on the lens(Although that depends on if the lens you have has one)
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Chris W
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Choose Love: Remembering Jo Cox and those affected in recent Manchester & London events #TheLastLeg
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Post by Chris W on Jul 19, 2008 10:34:04 GMT
Chris have you tried to use manual focous? Looking at the D60 there is a switch on the lens(Although that depends on if the lens you have has one) Manual focus would be the obvious way around it, but IMO that would be a PITA, when other cameras don't have this annoying "feature" when using auto-focus. To me it increases the risk of accidentally shining, what is an extremely bright light, at a driver/in service train, as some might innocently forget to switch to manual-focus. Its difficult enough to take photos for private/personal use (without being harassed by SA's who don't know the rules) at the best of times so I'd rather reduce the risk of mistakes being made - this why IMO its not suitable (its just my personal opinion)  |
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Post by stephenk on Jul 19, 2008 11:53:21 GMT
I've been testing a Nikon D60 for work. Its become apparent that the Nikon range of DSLR's are NOT suitable for LU photography. I think you can turn off the auto focus assist light. It is only required in very low light. I have a Nikon D60 (and taken quite a few shots on the tube and MTR), so I'll check the manual and get back to you. Edit: It can be turned off by many methods - page 57 of manual. |
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david5032
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Post by david5032 on Jul 19, 2008 15:41:42 GMT
My Canon EOS350D has that light, but there is sufficient light on even the darkest of stations for it not to be needed, so it doesn't come on.
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Chris W
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Post by Chris W on Jul 19, 2008 16:30:04 GMT
My Canon EOS350D has that light, but there is sufficient light on even the darkest of stations for it not to be needed, so it doesn't come on. Same with my 400D - in fact its NEVER come on since I bought it in April last year... As for the Nikon D60, I must admit that it is a better lower light/indoor camera than the Canon when on standard/auto settings and put it down to the focus lamp - I hadn't investigated whether the lamp could be switched off (mistakingly thought besides manual focus, that this was the design of the camera). Would be useful to compare images in lower light/indoor settings when the lamp is turned off Thank you stephenk: I'm happy to be corrected  |
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Post by stephenk on Jul 20, 2008 2:09:31 GMT
Chris W - another tip for using the Nikon D60 in low light is to use VR and auto ISO in PSAM modes. If you have a VR lens, make sure it is turned on - it is invaluable at lower shutter speeds. The D60's auto ISO is adjustable. You can select the shutter speed at which it bumps up the ISO, and also select max ISO. It only works in PSAM modes. I usually select 1/15sec as the minimum shutter speed as I get an almost 100% rate of sharp photos with VR turned on at that shutter speed. If you want blurred motion shots, then you can probably get away with 1/4sec if you have a steady hand. I select IS800 as max ISO as I find images too noisy at higher ISOs.
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